The taste of colour
Text: Katrin Roland
Stucki, Basel 18 Points Gault Millau, chef of the year 2014, ** Michelin
Reliable consistency – without standing still
When she took over the Bruderholz restaurant, Tanja Grandits acquired an extremely valuable inheritance. For the best part of half a century, this was where Hans Stucki had shown what it means to be addicted to classic French cooking. When Grandits arrived a decade ago, his presence could still be felt, and the restaurant's owners were keen for his spirit to live on.
As part of a complete overhaul, the Hans and Margit Stucki-Liechti Foundation renamed the restaurant Stucki. This meant that the chef's memory could be kept alive, while still allowing a new culinary style to be established that wouldn't tread on the great man's toes. Because at the end of the day, the restaurant was also a business and had to continue as such. Moving with the times was essential.
The first choice for a new head chef was Tanja Grandits, a young talent from the Swabian Alps who only a few years previously had opened the Thurtal restaurant in Eschikofen, Switzerland. The offer from Basel came out of the blue, but was so tempting that Grandits decided to up sticks from her rural surroundings. She would rebuild her modern, creative cuisine at the new Stucki and put the finishing touches to her signature style there.
The move turned out to be a spectacular success. In just five years, she and her team cooked their way to two Michelin stars and eighteen points in Gault Millau. In 2014, the latter guide named her chef of the year – no mean feat, given the relentless competition.
What distinguishes Grandits from other chefs who've won similar plaudits is her fierce dedication to flavour. Subtle nuances are deliberately teased out by the interplay of texture. Then there are the colours that make her dishes so unmistakable. She doesn't so much combine same-coloured ingredients as bring taste and colour together, often by subtly altering their intensity in relationship to one another.
She has worked according to this principle for years now, and to that extent little in her cooking has changed...(weiterlesen im Magazin)