Text: Jürgen Dollase
Azurmendi, Larrabetzu No. 16 / 50 Best,
If asked to visualise Spanish cuisine, fans of creative cuisine would immediately imagine a myriad of possibilities, typically related to molecular cooking and images that are a far cry from “normal” food. Only those who have a good sense of the country’s restaurants as a whole know that first-class Spanish cuisine is much more varied. We generally hear very little about these differences in the German media, and we know even less about the driving forces behind them all. Are Adrià and co. just eccentric tinkerers who have realised that you can become worldfamous with a few crazy gags? And isn’t that all mostly in the past? Let’s put it this way: The market for texturing agents is bigger than ever and – just for a laugh – in France, i.e. the country where Spanish creative cuisine has been most negatively received, sales of these agents are particularly strong. This is of course to be expected. The really good chefs have followed the developments, checked out the prospects and recognised what can be used and what cannot. Period. Far more interesting is the recognition that behind the world-famous images of tapas and molecular cuisine lie an insatiable creativity, a creative commitment and a willingness to take creative risks. This is a country that is stubbornly keeping pace with the times, stubbornly making new discoveries, and is still highly influential worldwide.
As you drive along the highway from Bilbao towards San Sebastian and leave the industrial estates behind you, the landscape rapidly becomes more rural. The large glass structure that suddenly appears high up on a hillside is at first a surprise. You might imagine that it is a winery, as wineries in many countries have long loved to build avant-garde architecture to house their facilities. And you are in the region of Txakoli, the Basque white wine which is produced mostly from the Hondarribi Zuri grape. Your assumption is partially correct. This imposing glass structure is the kingdom of Eneko Atxa; it is the threestarred restaurant Azurmendi...(weiterlesen im Magazin)